Powdery mildew evident on leaf top surface is easier to see when the leaf is turned “sideways” to catch the light on infection sites that are in sporulation. Photo credit G. Giese. |
Question: My
husband and I are planting a few Marquette grape vines this year in
Santa Fe. I would like to plant a tree approximately 8 feet from the
vines. Could you recommend some trees that would be “a good idea” to
plant close by? I read that planting a rose bush at the vines will help
to indicate any diseases since the roses would get this first. Is this a
good thing to do? Are rabbits a problem with grape vines? We have quite
a few roaming freely. Should we protect the vines with a net around
them?
- Susan R., Santa Fe
Answer: For
the tree portion of your query, what direction, relative to the grapes,
will the tree be planted? Will the tree shade the grape vines? Even if
the tree is planted on the north side of the grape-growing area, it may
shade the grapes once the canopy gets larger, so selecting a small tree
might be helpful.
Here are a few smaller-sized trees to consider: redbud (Western, Eastern, Mexican, or Oklahoma species, each has slightly different bloom color and hardiness adaptability), smoke tree, New Mexico Olive (native to the Southwest), jujube (some cultivars have wider canopy spreads than others), honey mesquite (cold hardy to USDA zone 7), vitex, many dwarf fruit trees could be considered, but regular pruning will be needed to keep them small.
Grow tube in late summer on vine near Tularosa. It appears the grow tube was used to protect the vine trunk from weed trimmer used to cut the Bermuda grass ground cover. Photo credit G. Giese. |
Generally
speaking, I encourage planting as many species together as possible and
am not worried about competition between plants as long as enough water
is applied for all to thrive. Competition between plants is only an
issue if there is a limited resource. By “resource” we usually mean
water, nutrients, and light. There are multiple benefits associated with
increased species diversity in a given area, from pollinator
populations to ground cover that shades root zones and helps mitigate
soil temperatures.
I was interested to hear suggestions from NMSU Extension Viticulture Specialist, Dr. Gill Giese, regarding shade, roses in the vineyard, rabbit habits, and netting, so I invited him to weigh in:
“The Marquette grape is
a complex hybrid grape developed and released by the University of
Minnesota. It is a good choice for your location due to its cold
hardiness. It is resistant to powdery and downy mildew. Although downy
mildew does not typically occur in New Mexico, powdery mildew is a
fungal disease that does affect vines across the state every year. (For
more information, see NMSU Extension Guide H329, “Grape Powdery Mildew” [https://aces.nmsu.edu/pubs/_h/H329.pdf]).
When temperatures are moderate, skies are overcast, and humidity
increases slightly, this disease will pop up. It can infect leaves and
fruit, and will degrade grape quality whether the fruit is destined for
juice or wine. Because the disease only infects the leaf or fruit
surface, it can be controlled with topically applied sulfur-based
fungicides and/or some plant-safe oils that are acceptable to organic
producers. UV light kills the causal organism, Erysiphe necator (syn. Uncinula necator),
and thus the more open the plant canopy is and the more exposed the
leaves and fruit are to direct sunlight and air flow, the better.
Although grapes thrive in full sun, some shade for part of the day,
especially in the late afternoon in New Mexico, could be advantageous
given the intensity of the sunlight here.
“There
is much folklore surrounding the practice of planting roses at row ends
for disease warning. But in many instances, grapes will contract
powdery mildew before a nearby rose bush. So, from a disease 'warning system' point of view, the rose bush at the row end is not of much use.
“Another
disease that occurs on grape, especially on the fruit near harvest, is
Botrytis. Minimizing powdery mildew infections early will go a long way
toward preventing/managing Botrytis. I would not anticipate it being
much of a threat to Marquette due to its fairly open cluster
architecture and the relatively tough skins of the individual berries. A
final group of diseases I have observed in New Mexico vineyards are
wood rotting diseases, but these do not typically show up until the
vines reach five years old and beyond. Infected vines that are watered and moderately fertilized will continue to grow and produce. In other words, they can tolerate this particular insult quite well.
“Grapevines,
especially young ones 1 to 5 years old, in an area where only a few
vines are planted should be protected from rabbits and other animals
that like to gnaw on bark. The rabbits can easily and completely girdle a
young vine and kill it. If you use grow tubes, please be aware that
while they can protect the vine from "varmints," they often create the
ideal environment for weeds and—with a little rainfall or
irrigation—powdery mildew, so check inside the tubes periodically.
Netting or chicken wire might be preferable. Netting will be especially
useful for protecting the entire vine canopy when your grapes are
ripening and approaching maturity as birds typically find them before
you do and can eat your entire crop in a short time.”
Tweets by: @NMViticulture
For more gardening information, "Originally published in Weekly Southwest Yard & Garden columns, visit the NMSU Extension Horticulture page (http://desertblooms.nmsu.edu/), follow us on social media (@NMDesertBlooms)and NMSU Desert Blooms Blog (https://nmsudesertblooms.blogspot.com)
or contact
your County Extension office (https://aces.nmsu.edu/county).
Marisa Thompson, PhD, is the Extension
Horticulture Specialist for New Mexico State University and is based at the
Agricultural Science Center at Los Lunas.
No comments:
Post a Comment